Hey travelers,
Dubrovnik is often hailed as the Pearl of the Adriatic.
With its rich history, medieval architecture, and dramatic seaside setting, it deserves its reputation. But Croatia, and especially Dubrovnik, is no longer the underrated European destination it once was.
Cruise ships are capped at two a day, and even with that limit, the walled city still fills with visitors. Add in the steady stream of Game of Thrones fans tracking down King’s Landing filming spots, and the same ancient walls and streets that draw people to its enchanting Old Town can start to feel overwhelming, with the afternoon heat and crowds both peaking at once.
Across the southern border, Montenegro’s Boka Bay has a quieter, more under-the-radar feel than its neighbor.
Days here naturally revolve around being outdoors. Spend time hiking above the bay, boating along the coast, or taking winding drives through the mountains. It’s less sandy beaches and more swimming coves, with long lunches by the water and slow evenings in historic harbor towns.
Boka Bay is Europe’s southernmost fjord-like bay. The Dinaric Alps’ deep, pine green mountains drop almost straight down into the still blue water. Most trips center on Kotor, its UNESCO-listed old town a maze of marble streets, stone walls, and Venetian churches, with cats that seem to run the place. Just up the coast, Perast feels calmer and more refined, with restored Baroque palaces and a pedestrian-only village. Near the bay’s entrance, Herceg Novi also keeps its own well-preserved hillside town, with a relaxed local feel and several swimming spots.
Across the strait from Kotor, Tivat has become Montenegro’s modern luxury hub. Porto Montenegro turned a former naval base into an elegant, old-world-inspired marina that fills with superyachts, earning it the nickname the Monaco of the Balkans. And nearby Portonovi is home to a newer marina with stylish residences and upscale dining, all while preserving the bay’s relaxed atmosphere.
Where to stay depends on what aspect of the bay you’re looking to lean into.
One&Only Portonovi matured Montenegro’s status as a premier riviera with luxury hospitality and wellness tourism. Its spa built around Chenot, the Swiss wellness brand, plus a rare sandy beach make it a relaxing retreat and perfect for longer visits.
For something more boutique, Heritage Grand Perast is built into a cluster of renewed stone palaces in the small, car-free village of Perast. Its pool and terraces sit just above the shore, and many rooms have views across the water to tiny island churches offshore. This is the pick for a walkable, more local-feeling stay.
Regent Porto Montenegro sits right inside the world-class marina with rooms looking directly over the harbor, where yachts come and go throughout the day. It’s a classic, full-service kind of stay that makes an easy central base for strolling along the promenade and exploring the rest of the bay by boat.
Montenegro has only been its own country since 2006, and outside of the newer pockets, it still has a somewhat unfinished feeling in the best way. It spent years being the place people flew over on their way to Croatia. That’s shifted.
Currently Obsessed
Something I can’t stop thinking about.
Jacumba Hot Springs Hotel, an hour east of San Diego and in the middle of nowhere. This tiny desert town had gone quiet for decades until the mineral springs hotel got a full, surreal revitalization a couple years back. Bohemian design and an earthy color palette, combined with the magnetic energy, make it feel like a retro desert lodge fever dream. I stop by almost every time I’m driving that stretch of desert, and no matter how many visits, I can’t seem to take enough pictures because it’s that photogenic. I still haven’t managed to stay overnight, but that’s high on my list. The natural mineral pools are the soul of the adults-only retreat, running from the high 90s to just over 100 degrees year-round. With the desert finally starting to cool down, it’s the perfect time to soak in one. You don’t need to book a room to try them, since day passes are available too.
Worth Packing
One thing that earns its spot in the bag.
Okay technically this one can’t really be packed, but I’m never going on a summer trip without acquiring supplies to make an Aperol spritz. And fall doesn’t start until September 22nd, no matter how many pumpkin spice drinks have shown up at Trader Joe’s, so it’s still spritz season over here. And it couldn’t be easier to make one. The ratio is 3-2-1, three parts prosecco, two parts Aperol, one splash of soda, poured over a lot of ice, with an orange wheel garnish. Make one tonight. You’ve still got time.
If this got you thinking about your Euro summer plans for next year, I’d love to help make it happen. Gold Dust Travel is where to start.
If someone came to mind while you were reading this, feel free to forward it their way.
— Kelsey, founder of Gold Dust Travel